It’s all about the formula…

Hey all you amazing hairstylists, or just people who love hair as much as me. Today on #MondayManes I’m going be talking about Hair Color Formulas and how to create a natural color blend with hair extensions.

No matter what hair extension application you are currently using, if the color doesn’t match it is a dead giveaway that it’s hair extensions – especially on clients that have shorter hair, or shorter layers. If they have longer hair, or what I refer to as long skinny hair, that’s an easy homerun.

But let’s talk about getting things to blend on shorter hair and shorter layers, because if you can tackle that – it will help level up your color skills.

The biggest mistake you can make when doing hair is when your clients sits in the chair and the first thing you  ask them is “OK what should we do?”

Remember you are the professional, and sometimes clients have a hard time talking hair language.

As a hairstylist and a professional you should trust yourself and control the frame at all times. This doesn’t mean not listening to the client or acknowledging their concerns, but simply let them know YOU GOT THIS.

Trust me they will respect this, and let you do your art.

When I look at a client for the first time I immediately start investigating throughout the hair. Do they have too much red underneath? Maybe they’ve only had a partial highlight for 25 years ha ha. Is it over balayaged? Does it have some lines that need to be broken up? How did the previous color fade out?

Based on the problems I’m seeing, I then visualize my outcome. I briefly explain my vision, and the client gives me the green light. Now, I don’t map out the whole color. I take it one section at a time because, based on their previous color, each section of her hair is going to look a little bit different and needs to be addressed accordingly.

OK timeout for all of your reading this week that don’t actually do hair you’re like what the hell is she babbling about…  Don’t worry maybe this will help you to better communicate with your hairstylist 🙂

Ok back to color stuff…

I always tell my students whatever colors you are using on the client needs to be mirrored in hair extensions.

Often times I will hold up the extension that I’m looking to use with the clients hair, and then move the hair around so I can find out how many colors they have in their natural hair. Often times they have 4-5 colors I can see (Especially on mixed blonde or medium brown hair). It doesn’t make sense to hold the extension hair up to theirs and match it, and then color their natural hair.

Usually, I will start the color process on my clients hair with an assistant, and I have another assistant mirror what we’re doing in the extension hair. Meaning, if we add a base or root to the natural hair we do that to the hair extensions too. If we add a low light or tone their hair, we do the same to the hair extensions with the same Hair Color Formulas.

Often times my students asked me how do you know how much hair extension hair to color or prep? I color or prep more hair than I anticipate using. That way I have plenty of options when placing the hair, and then I’m not stuck with… well close enough.🤷‍♀️

Often times with new hair I feel like the blend looks better after a couple washes. I think this is because the textures in both hair blend together better.

Everyone always wants to share Hair Color Formulas and wants to know what toner is this, or what lowlight was that. And yes, toners and formulas are a big deal but it’s also important to understand timing and porosity of hair. This will help ensure that you don’t damage the hair, and that you get the best possible outcome with your colors.

Ok. Let’s sum it all up:

  1. Make sure to mirror whatever you’re doing in the natural hair with the hair extensions.
  2. Understand timing and porosity of hair.
  3. Be the professional and practice frame control
  4. Be the artist and allow yourself to look at each section of the hair and determine what you think it needs.
  5. Don’t settle with…  my next client is here so it’s good enough.
  6. Trust your self and be professional!

Oh, and lastly – yes, I would like to share just a few of our favorite Hair Color Formulas at the DKW Styling Salon:

Redken 7nb 7gb lowlight or smudge

L’Oreal 9.13 for a toner
8.13 for a lowlight
7.13 + 6.3 for a smudge

9p 9v clear -shades- for blonde toner
7v 7nb 8n -shades-ashy smudge
8N dia lowlight

Bronde color:
6n + 7.13 for smudge
8n & 8g for lowlight 1
6.13 for lowlight 2

Stay tuned every Monday where we share more hair tips, and don’t miss our next BMS Event for Hair Stylists in Huntington Beach California this December.

If you’re interested in scheduling an appointment in the Salon with me or a member of my team, click here.

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