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Hey guys today on the blog I’m sharing some of my secret formulas . We all know one of the keys to having natural looking extensions is having a blend be spot on. Can you spot which one of these photos are extensions and which are not?  We have all heard  the hair term lived in, beachy, sombre, rooted smudged babylights and more…  lately I’ve been calling it shadow root.

Ladies don’t be scared of a little root.  The magic is getting your base to appear not Brassy or red but not flat or mousy either.  Many of you have maybe tried a base bump…  and are left feeling a little bit reddish… so you hear base bump  and your mind immediately goes to orange roots or hot roots…  which can absolutely happen if you are lifting your natural base to much.

All right so let’s just cut to the chase. How do you get that soft shadow root…

here is what I do…

I start by doing baby fine highlights with a quarter inch of a slice in between.  I foil everything to the side except for maybe three or four going forward around the face.  Eyeball your color… picture where you want that face framer and apply a foil or two.

I usually do my highlights all the way to the scalp but they are so fine that Val often makes fun of me and says cool invisible highlights but I’m telling you,  it’s just enough to break up the base.

After I do all of my invisible highlights ha ha 😉 I then go in  with my base color.  I typically use a dark base even on my blonde clients. For example this particular blonde I use 6-1 with 15 volume.  I realize her natural looks pretty dang close to a six but doing level on level with anything above a 10 volume actually lifts it just a tiny bit and helps to cover grey not that she has any but some clients  your only option is a base full more coverage.  If a client doesn’t have enough dimension in their hair or a typical complain about how thier blonde fades yellow…  instead of just throwing on a toner at the bowl which mutes the yellow,  I prefer to see multi-dimensional blondes.  So after I apply the base I go in and do a little low light with Redken shades  EQ.  Formula I love is 7nb 7gb 8wg.  I keep a close eye on the low light depending on the porosity of the clients hair so that it doesn’t go to dark.


last  I towel dry the hair and apply the same low light formula over the invisible highlight.   I call this my smudge color.  only let it sit 3 minutes so this way it’s soften lines but  doesn’t  completely cover up my work.  Because I am depositing color over lightened hair ( baby lights) it tends to give the roots the illusion of a cooler or more  neutral  tone, make sense?  It’s hard when I’m talking  on the blog because if you’re not a hairstylist this all might sound like foreign language but hopefully you get the idea 😉

below is some of my other recent work at my salon in laguna  beach CA. The first photo is of a client whose hair doesn’t grow on one side or so she says? I’m convinced it must be breaking on one side and we can’t figure out why… anyways she’s been wearing these extensions and they have saved her life ha ha.

My last client in this post is a redhead I love doing red and wanted to share  her formula as well. I use bohyme hair and she is wearing a 5, 33, and 18. her real hair I use  Schwartkoph color 6-68, 6-77, 6-5.  I have a collaboration line of hair coming out with them soon with some  amazing custom colors that I formulated.  Stay tuned for more news on that!

If your hairstylist and you would like to attend one of my classes CLICK HERE from her information.

If you’re a potential client I’m now taking new clients. Click here for more information