Remember the first set of highlights you ever had and it was the perfect pale blonde. Then overtime your hair seems to get lighter and lighter even though you’re occasionally adding a little low light. So how do you get back to that pale blonde and away from the yellow or over bleached look we are all so scared of as a blonde.
Although my hair is dark right now the majority of my haircolor life I have been blonde. So I have experienced many good and bad shades of blonde. I have had my low lights turned pink green tangerine you name it I’ve had it. And this was before the crazy hair colors were in style. I remember one year right around Halloween, remember when Kelly Clarkson 90s chunky highlights were in I was trying to get a white blond and dark brown effect and my highlight went orange and my low light went black. People kept asking me if I did that for Halloween ha ha. And when did we start using terminology like chunky for a hair I’m glad that phaze is over.
Now back to the… topic how do you achieve that perfect soft blonde after years of over highlighting your hair. If you’re like me you probably had a few bad experiences where the low light goes to dark or a weird color. Why does this happen? Should the scare us away from ever adding any depth or dimension to our hair ever again and we are stuck with just bleaching the pigment completely out of her hair and then adding an ashy tover over it? I have to be honest I’m not a big fan of cooler Or the term icy blondes. I think they just don’t look good on most women’s skin complexion unless you’re 20. And after about two weeks of fades out anyway. I love a bright pale blonde. When you put an all over toner over the ends it mutes the hair. Which someone women may want in fear of yellow ha ha, but I personally prefer bright pops a blonde especially around my face. I prefer neutral to warm tones. I usually go with a more neutral base while adding warmth and dimension throughout the blond is more flattering.
You have to be careful with terminology with clients. I find a SafeWord is neutral some clients are triggered by the word cooler or ashy while other clients are triggered by the word warmth. When we think ashy we all think of that one time the toners sat on too long and we had purple ends or someone said they’re going to put an ashy low light in and we ended up with green low lights. Trust me I can say this is not just a stylist but also a client sitting in the chair who had experience this at some point or another.
OK so let’s get straight to the point, how can I make my blondes look brighter and also have a softer grow out… you know like your first set of highlights at 16.;)
I always tell my blonde clients don’t be afraid of a little dimension. I don’t even use the word lowlight. I tell them my goal is to make their blondes look more like a pale blonde without having to put a toner on that will fade out in two weeks anyways.
so here is how I do it.
I start with a partial baby light all over the whole head. If you don’t know what a baby light is it’s a very fine highlight. I do the foils all the way to scalp. My next step is a base color. Some women may be scared of the base but maybe this is because you have had to light of the base therefore causing you to have orangey or hot roots. Again I can say this because I’ve been there. If you have any gRey the only option is a base color in order to cover every single grey.
If you don’t care about every single grey covered you may be able to just do a heavy foil. Most of my base colors I use are a medium or dark brown even on my blondes. ( a level 5-6) but because I’ve done the baby lights all the way to the scalp and makes a base appear not that dark. After the bass it has almost finished processing this is where I go in and pull low lights throug desired areas. It’s important to understand the porosity of hair and timing of haircolor in order to not get too dark of a low light. I typically start my low lights in the back because the hair is healthier there. And I know it won’t over process.
The last trick I do is I’ll take the same low lIG by formula and in zone two I paint throughout the top. The top is typically the most poorest and you don’t want streaky low lights but you also want a little depth. My last and final step is after I rinse it in the shampoo bowl I take the same low light formula and have a client set up part the hair and paint the same formula over the part to soften any lines that need to be softened.
This also makes the base appear neutral. Haircolor so much about lifting and toning if you’re trying to get rid of any orange or red out of your hair The trick is to lift the pigment out and deposit the desired shade over it in order to create a somewhat neutral tone.
Below are a few other blonde transformations I did recently with the same technique. All of these clients are wearing NBR extensions which sometimes I have to color extension hair as well to get the perfect match. If there’s one thing I’ve learned with extensions if you have two solid of a blonde extension it looks cheap and like extensions. To create a more natural hair extension look with blondes it’s important to add many different shades and tones and not just one color.
Happy Tuesday everyone! Stay tuned every Tuesday to the blog for Tuesday tips and Friday for Friday fashion! I also have a youtube chanel that I share videos on Tuesday. This weeks video was a recap on some of my looks for my Cabo trip. Click here to check it out.