Changing Tones:

All of us can be hair bipolar at times. We are on Pinterest late at night, and suddenly a sun- kissed , or perfectly balayage  photo shows up. The next thing we know, we have pinned 17 photos of “inspiration hair” and bought 3 new pairs of shoes! How is this even possible. What is it that “SELLS” us or catches our eye?

Why is it that some shades look better on certain skin tones? I once read that you should never go 2 shades lighter or darker than your natural. Does that even matter? I am a natural dark brown, and for some reason beige or honey tones suit my skin tone better. Or maybe it’s the balance between all colors. You see when you look at a photo a specifically a blonde, your eye is drawn to the lightest part. So you think more is more….

You started out with maybe a few balayage pieces, while still keeping some of your natural peeking through giving you depth. Or maybe you started with a partial highlight. Somewhere along the line in fear of being brassy, you are now almost a solid shade or canary yellow,  with no depth in your hair (trust me I’ve been there). You start to feel washed out or harsh. Or your skin turns a wired shade of green or pink, and something is off.

Be Patient.

Here are the rules of hair. When you are lifting hair it will go warm. When you are depositing color over pre lightened hair it will go cooler because you have pulled all the pigment out. So If you don’t want to be brassy you lift then tone, or deposit.  How ever if you only lifted to red or orange state, the toner will likely fade out more brassy.


 I have so many clients come in explaining they want to be lighter, but in reality the want to change the tone of the hair. You can’t just throw on a tonner, or you might feel to muted, muddy or ashy are all terms I hear.   here is my solution for this problem

Color deposits fast on poorest hair. I start with weaving pieces out in the back and placing them in conditioner foils,  because I know I can paint faster than I can foil. Next I start on the top and weave in babylights. (this is very thin weaved out pieces) If the ends can handle a little balayage, I will paint some of the ends with my Lightner and place in a foil, to process quicker. After everything is painted and foiled, I go between my foils with the same formula and paint from the root about 2 inches down. I keep a close eye on this type of color so that nothing over processes.

If you have been following my blog you my have noticed I changed it up a little. With the DKW Styling Salon in Laguna Beach opening up I will soon have more education dates available including my online course. CLICK here for more education options.

Happy Painting Everyone!