Most of my colors are done with a combination of foiling and hair painting. I find the foils give me control, while the painting gives me freedom and creativity. I usually start with a base color. When it comes to a base bump, My rule is do not over bump. For example I am naturally a level 5, my base is only one shade lighter. I usually do a 6 ash to control the warmth. One rule to remember in color is anytime you lift it will go warm, you then need to tone or just control. My rule with blondes is Lift with ash deposit with warmth. If I have a client who is a level 8 or lighter(those are your natural blondes) I am depositing so I add warmth. If I am depositing a low light I add warmth, so I don’t end up with greenish lowlights. This is also a rule I use at the shampoo bowl when toning hair. I don’t always reach for that 8ash or 9V. On brunettes try a 7nb, 7gb, … these are warm tones but control and mute the brassiness. If you don’t do hair this may all sound a bit of a foreign language, see the color chart below, this may help to better understand;) I use Redken Shades EQ for my lowlight, smudging, blending, toning and basically any times I am depositing. My permanent color/base is done with Schwarzkoph. Happy Painting Everyone!
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