Hair for me is Creative Logic. Timing, porosity, texture, and placement all play a major role is how the color shows up in the hair. 1+2 does not always equal 3. Meaning you can mix the exact formula for 2 clients with the same natural level and it will still come out a little differet. This is where logic come into play. Trust your self, when ever I am working on a color correction or new client I always pretend its me. This helps me stay clear and think through problem solving better. There is only so much you can do in one color session, so be realistic about expectations and you may even surprise your self. Think out side the box….instead of a logical 1 brown two blondes combination, look at the hair as your painting and get creative. Place and paint the color where you want to see it show up.
The first client in these photos I chose to warm up her base and comb through. I also added a heavy highlight to her ends then toned, and added 1.5 row of NBR.
The second client I wanted to tone down the blonde. I warmed up her base and painted low lights. My Rule with all blondes is deposit with warmth lift with ash. Because her natural level was a 9 I wanted to deposit depth at her roots so my base was a warm level 6. Her low light was also depositing over bleach so I added warm under tones. You can see the soft contrast helped tone down the yellow and looks softer on her skin tone.
The last client was just a touch up. I melted her color and tighten her extensions. I just thought it was a gorgeous shot of her!
Happy Painting everyone!